Kyoto & Osaka Nights — Good At Lunch

It is important to leave “space” for impromptu adventures when traveling.

natural wine teppan maki nikolaschka — Natural Wine and Teppan Yaki Restaurant in Osaka @wine_nikolaschka

I recently spent a mind-blowing two weeks in Japan. It was a trip that had been planned for several years, with start/stop departure dates having to be cancelled for various life reasons, notwithstanding the world shutting down for several years, during Covid.

This lengthy duration of planning resulted in a well-thought-out trip, pre-booked itinerary that in essentially went off without a hitch. It’s thoroughness however did not exclude abundant time for wondering and exploring neighbourhoods and local spots for dining. We pre-booked our accommodations, rail pass, and few special dedicated culinary pilgrimages for ramen of note and exceptional street-food vendors. Many of our ryokans fed us their local bounty with seasonal and regional pride. But, even with the years of enthusiasm and build up and planning, we did not schedule every minute of the trip, despite not wanting to miss any culinary highlights.

In and amongst our rigorous “hotspot lists”, my two favourite meals of the trip were indeed, unplanned. The first surprise was at one of our family-owned Ryokans in the sleepy west coast city of Kanazawa. Expecting a delicious, but low-key local meal, we were not aware of the culinary significance of its restaurant (and its admirable Gault-Millau and Michelin ratings) and were treated to one of the most delicious and meticulously executed tasting menus I have every eaten - a Zen-jewel-box of a dining room, exquisite cutlery, and glassware included.

Dinner at Ryokan Maki no Oto in Kanazawa

Yaki tori gizzards @wine_nikolaschka Chicken perfection in its simplicity.

sukiyaki yanaino, kyoto, yakitori — Stick heaven @sumiyaki_yanaino Kyoto

The other highlight of the trip was a simple yakitori joint in the back alleys of Kyoto. We walked-in off the street, because it smelled so delicious, was full of locals, had no English menu, the intensity on the face of the gentleman grilling, and mostly had palpable “high vibes”.

The Japanese have a concept of “Ma” where the “spaces between and around” become an important or central aspect of an object, art, or thing you are observing. Ikebana for example is just as much about the spaces around the blooms than the beauty of the flowers themselves. I think this concept applies to a travel itinerary as well. A waft of a mouth-watering charcoal-grilled smell, alluring hue of a tile, a glimpse of beads of condensation rolling down the side of a chilly beer mug or high ball are all tiny details which are an immediate heat-sink for curious culinary travellers willing to veer from a pre-set itinerary. It is essential when you are travelling to observe “ma” to discover the unexpected, to uncover things you might have simply walked past if too focused on a pre-planned itinerary. Try new things, experience everything. This is the true joy of travel, living in the moment.

-Heidi